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When curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small place achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary honour.